We went to Bordeaux in 2020. Not only did we go to Bordeaux and forgo the vineyards, but we travelled there and then returned and it is was no more than a week after our return that I then discovered Canelé Bordelaise. Jesus & I both wept. I can happily forgo a vineyard or two, but to travel to Bordeaux and not to have sat in a local cafeteria with a cup of their blackest coffee and a canelé (and then one more and then again one more) is one of a life’s great regrets.
Instead I tried these at a bakery in Oslo but left convinced that something valuable had been lost in the translation. So I set it upon myself to make these at home and the first question is
The mould is important and unique. To make authentic canelé some would have you believe that using copper moulds hand made in Bordeaux is a must. Late evenings I often find myself staring longingly at the many beautiful Canele -Bordeaux-tinned-molds online. I have tried my very best to buy some of these but alas whenever my mouse hovers over the ‘purchase’ icon my Scottish ancestry howls in a rage and fury. Their anguished voices seek to reason with me that you can’t justify spending so much money on moulds for just one dessert (although I guess you could also make miniature jelly in these too, no). Of course, the only really relevant question is can you taste the difference? I don’t know, because I ended up with this Canele mould. I have been happy with the results and the voices have subsided, at least for now. I think the important thing here is to avoid silicone. They are rubbish, especially for achieving
The perfect crust requires that the mould is coated with a mixture of beeswax and butter. The beeswax give it a crispy honeycomb taste and the butter prevents the canele sticking to the mould and gives the perfect combination with
The soft custard interior needs a healthy splash of dark rum but also patience. I usually make the custard 24 hours before my caneles, but the very best result is after 48 hours. I will typically make my custard on a Friday and then a batch of 8 on a Saturday and then 8 again on a Sunday (you can but you really can’t eat 16 all in one day, come on man). I have heard that the mixture is even better on the 3rd day, but even my patience has a limit.
Canelé Ingredients (makes 14-16)
500ml milk
1 vanilla pod
5 egg yolks (6 if the eggs are small)
120g flour
250g icing sugar (‘melis’ in Norway)
80ml dark rum
1/2 ts salt
For the coating (for a 8-9 piece mould):
15g food grade beeswax
30g butter
Note: You should really invest in some beeswax for this recipe. You will also see that some recipes state an equal measure beeswax to butter for the mould but beeswax is very sticky when melted. The canelé will also bubble a lot in the very hot oven and this will make a huge mess everywhere. I have a proportion 1:2 beeswax to butter which avoids the worst mess excess but still gives great crunch.
Method
The day before (or upto 72 hours before):
Gently heat milk with vanilla pod for 20 minutes and then remove pod
Add butter and once melted then remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature
Do the following mixing by hand to avoid any air being added to the mixture. I strongly stir (think how you would nervously and rigorously stir your cocktail on a first date).
Stir in the egg yolks and then the sugar, then the flour then the salt.
Once fully mixed sieve the mixture through a fine sieve into a clean bowl.
Add the rum.
At this stage taste the mixture. If you prefer a stronger vanilla taste then add vanilla drops or paste.
Cover in clingfilm and let rest in the fridge for unto 72 hours.
Day of baking:
Heat temperature to highest setting (230C or even above if possible)
Melt beeswax and butter in pan.
Use melted mixture to coat the mould. Use a brush to make sure the mould is fully coated with mixture.
Remove mixture from fridge and stir lightly then transfer mixture to the form. Do not completely fill as these will rise slightly (3/4 full).
Place tray in oven and bake for 10-15 minutes (depends on heat: 15 min for 250C and 10min for 230C) then reduce heat to 190C and continue to bake for 30-35 minutes. Total baking time approx 40-45 min.
Remove from oven and allow to cool on wire rack. Try squeezing a canelé. The result should be like a sponge which is dry on outside but still moist inside. The same texture here. If you think they need more oven time give them more oven time.
Eat once cooled (within same day).